Stefan Hills, 11/20/12
Can you shrink a Barbour jacket? The short answer is Yes! I believe you can.
But why would you want to? The answers are many, like 1) I was bored on a Saturday night and the wife was out with her girlfriends; 2) you are in between sizes; or 3) you want to break in the jacket.
At this point I should add that I fully understood that there was the very real risk that I was about to ruin an otherwise perfectly good jacket, not mention James Bond collectible from SKYFALL. But I had another in my closest and so was willing to take the risk. You know you are a Bond Fan when you buy back ups!
When I spoke to the sales agent at my local Barbour store, who in turn spoke to the alterations department for Barbour, they informed that if I wanted the sleeves shortened, Barbour would not remove the elbow patch and move it up, they would just reduce the inch and 1/2 I wanted and rebind the leather trim of the sleeve hole with a new leather trim.
I did not like the fact that I would lose the space between the sleeve opening and the elbow patch as the screen jacket had that gap.
PREPARATION:
The prep was pretty simple, I had personally removed the hood, and the extra buttons on the front of the jacket that held the hood in place. At this point the hood is still not totally useless. But once the zipper comes off, that’s all she wrote with regards to the hood. Some have said to merely cut off the zipper, but I think that if you want a clean finish you need to unpick the zipper and restitch.
Besides, the Barbour thorn proof dressing does a good job of sealing the holes that are made by the removal of the buttons and thread. The chest flap was next. And my tailor said that it was a major pain to remove the flap correctly, as it was attached to the inner seam of the jacket and lining. Some have also said that you can attach an extra button to the inside of the jacket and tuck the flap in the opposite direction. I did think about it. But in order properly pull back the chest flap, the button has to almost be placed where the sleeve meets the inner arm pit. This makes for an uncomfortable pinch. So, the chest flap has to go. The loss of these elements of the jacket, made the jacket MUCH lighter to wear, but also no more than a warm blazer.
METHOD:
Now we get to the good part; throw on your favorite swimming trunks and a t-shirt, put on the jacket, button up, pop your collar and fire up the shower. I had mine on the highest setting, in terms of the heat of the water, and it was really steaming.
While in the shower, I kept bending my elbows, and crossing my arms as I wanted the fabric to confirm to my body. I did this the whole time and I was in the shower for about 20 minutes. Once getting out of the shower, gently squeeze out any excess water. Taking off the jacket, I realized that though the jacket on the outside was soaked, most of the inside was dry. Put the jacket into a cotton laundry bag, with draw strings. This way any metal or buttons do not get damaged from tumbling around in the dryer. If you do have laundry bag, use an old pillow case and firmly tie off the ends.
I set the dryer to high heat, for 30 minutes, and threw it in. I would recommend checking on the jacket every 10 minutes or so. I did not and in hind sight I should have, instead going to pick up take out at the local Chinese Cafe.
RESULTS:
Once I pulled out the jacket when I got back, the results did surprise me quite a bit in a good way. I got the desired fit and look I was after ever since I saw the image of Bond, on the cover of Bond on Set, the making of Skyfall. Also the sleeves were now at the desired length.
COMMENTS:
The jacket brand new was stiff, and Barbour’s dressing has a tendency to seep into the inside of the jacket, and makes clothes feel a little clammy. The shower and dryer not only broke in and relaxed the jacket but it now fits better and has a reduced clamminess.
The shower also gave the jacket that weathered in look, which is another reason why I am holding off the rewaxing. I like the character the jacket now has. In the pictures to the right, I have tried to illustrate where the modifications have been made with regards to screen accuracy and have used a stock jacket as a reference. Both jackets are a size Large.
The only change I did not make when compared to the screen jacket was that I did not remove the button on the other side of the throat latch. I think removing this button was a mistake by the costume department, GASP! there, I said it. I mean, why remove all the buttons and not remove the throat latch, instead of folding it over? If you fold it over to keep the latch out of the way, keep the button that makes it functional. So I kept the button on the opposite side and to me it makes sense to do so. Other than that the jacket is pretty accurate to what one see’s on screen.
This was my BOND experience, nowhere as exciting as the day in the life of our favorite fictional hero, but come on, admit it, there were moments while reading this that caused you to break out into a cold sweat??
Wow David, you are a brave man. I would never touch my Barbour!
The moment, you raised the heat of your dryer… i have to admit my hands got a bit sweaty.
As it seems taking the risk was worth it and thats what life is about! Taking risks!
This wasn’t me…it was Stefan…and brave but resourceful man!
sorry, i didnt read the top. this blog sounded quite like you, dave.
but cool experience anyways!
Stefan, takes a strong nerve to risk a 1000 dollar jacket, but thumbs up mate, im still considering whether to do this to my barbour look a like (marks and spencer)
Thanks Gents, the Barbour is one tough jacket, I pretty sure it can take whatever you can through at it.
Please delete last comment left by me, had the auto correct on…and it is not what I typed.
Stefan- did washing the jacket shrink the width or length of body? Or only sleeves?
Hi Stefan,
I recently was able to procure one of these jackets and I am looking to make it screen accurate just as you have. The jacket fits perfectly, I would just like to remove the extra elements as you stated above (chest flap, zipper etc).
My experience with tailors is almost nonexistent, so I would be hesitant to send it to one without research of course. Would it be possible for you to share the tailor’s information who did your jacket? If not, would you happen to know if Barbour can do these alterations (I have read that they take sleeves in, but nothing on removal of accessories).
Thanks,
John
Hay guys, just got one of these brand new. Fits perfect bar the arms in both length and width… Any advice beyond the original idea?
Regards.
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I did it ! Had the same problem with the Commander re-issue of the Tokito ultra limited blurb (man I keep falling for this). The sleeves were way to long and I was swimming in it. 82kg 177cm. L was to small in the shoulders, so I sent for XL by aspecto. Hassle free delivery and exchange. Anyway, the sleeves looked ridiculous. So into the shower I went, indeed keeping dry underneath. Put the jacket in a pillow case with a sturdy knot, 30 minute tumble-dry (scalding hot) and put it on a coat hanger to settle. The garment shrunk allright, a lot of creasing appeared and unsightly brown and ocre blots appeared. My guess was that this was due to uneven wax distribution. I re-waxed the coat with thorn-proof from Barbour, using an old sock and liquid dressing (au bain marie). It worked like a charm ! The blots are gone (the creasing not fully). What an adventure with an expensive garment. Verdict: Doable for unpracticed single-0 agents….
Thomas, do you possibly have any shots of the jacket, post arm modification?! I have finally settled on a size large due to shoulder width, but the arms are well too long, I am keen to try & shrink just the arms but don’t want to be left with it looking like it has borrowed sleeves from another jacket!
Thanks!
I’m curious to find out what blog platform you are using? I’m experiencing some minor security issues with my latest blog and I would like to find something more safeguarded. Do you have any solutions?
Hi,
I’m searching for the hood of the tokito jacket, since I bought the commander reissue but need a hood for rainy days. Anyone interested in selling an unneeded hood?
I’ve just done the bond experience. My barbour comander jacket is a large. Before I went in the shower with it, it fit on the shoulders but it was just too big. Now it is perfect. It really dose work. You just have to have some balls. Now I really am 007. Ha ha
Hi. Do not try to shrink your lovely barbour. Mine looked good at first, but now it has kept on shrinking . It’s too small now. My advice is leave the sizing to the barbour tailors. I will be buying a new one. Expensive mistake.
@timallamby do you mean it kept shrinking after to washed and dried it or it just shrank through normal wear and tear? i too am in between sizes. i have a 34 barbour bedale and the 32 is just too short and looks like a girls jacket on me. the 43 fits but it’s a little long. anyone have advice to shorten the jacket?!
What an interesting thread … I have bought an xxl commander, good fit in shoulders, but too wide in the waist and the sleevelength is ridiculous (how must a guy look to fit in those sleeves properly ?)
Does anyone of you has made the shower-tailoring again or does somebody has any before/after pictures.
That post of Tim Allamby is making me nervous, otherwise I would do it …
best regards
What’s the size difference between xl & xxl I’ve just got a xxl as I couldn’t try the xl , it looks ok on shoulders but I’d like to shrink it I think !! Any more news on @timallamby post
I need to get in on this life-altering discussion! Recently bought a Beacon and modified it, heavily.
1. Stefan is right about this whole shrinking article. The dryer took 3/4″ off the sleeve length, snugged-up the shoulders, and generally made the jacket fit less like a burlap sack. It also had the benefit of drinking some of the oil and making it look like it’s 12+ months old… which is definitely the character I wanted. The only risk worth noting is that when the sleeves shrink, the lining doesn’t. The lining cloth sticks out of the cuffs a little, unless you get a tailor to pinch it back, inside (see below).
2. This jacket is HUGE around the midriff. Unless you’re shaped like Homer Simpson, this thing isn’t even close to fitting (as seen on screen) without tailoring. I typically wear Medium or 38-40 size jackets and (if I planned on wearing the Beacon for show) I’d have chosen a size Medium. Given that I wanted to put a sweater under it, Large is perfect for me in the chest and shoulders. I already have a Belstaff Trailmaster that’s so tight I can’t get the zipper all the way up… didn’t want a repeat
3. There are a lot of rumours that there’s a ‘plastic liner’ inside the coat; this is a half-truth. There is a liner between the oilcloth and the plaid inside… but it’s literally the same thin cloth that lines the sleeves. Technically it’s breathable… it’s the oilcloth that traps moisture.
4. Because of the handwarmer pockets on the front panels, and the poacher’s pocket in the back, your options to take-in the waist are limited to the quarter-panels that run under the armpits.
The ideal method would be to unstitch/ restitch the existing seams… but good luck finding a thread that matches Barbour’s original. Mismatching colour, thickness, or stitch width will be obvious, so be careful with this route.
I opted instead to dart the quarter panels (folding a lengthy ‘pinch’ and sewing it shut from the inside) which are nearly invisible since they’re under the arms and the jacket is dark. A tailor can do this for you incredibly easily; I do a lot of my own clothes and took care of it myself in 20 minutes. Rip the seams on both inner linings, invert the coat, and pin the darts to test for size… I ended up removing close to 3 inches (a lot, in mens’ fashion) from the waist. Fits like a glove now in the shoulders, chest, waist… and has a masculine ‘kick’ at the hips like a jacket should. Zero regrets doing this; the jacket looks like garbage without this alteration.
5. The sleeves are treetrunks, even after shrinking. I plan on darting the sleeves (on the inside of the elbow, as closely as possible to the existing seams) to make them a little more tolerable; I have thick thighs and could probably get my legs in there.
I hope sharing my experience was helpful. Keep in mind that when you see an ad or movie featuring clothing, it’s barely ever ‘as manufactured’ and there’s no shame modifying it to suit your body.
The coat is totally worth the money and makes you feel like a legit badass.
Barbour will change the sleeve lining to cotton for 贈30 , I wonder if they will do it after I shrink my navy commander ?? Couldnt resist I now have olive & navy
Just bought a medium commander jacket, I am usually size small athletic build. I had choose the medium because of my shoulders height 5:10. Last night I risked it and stood in the shower reasonable heat for 15 minutes, stuck it in the tumble dryer for 45 minutes high heat and its now the best Barbour jacket fit I own. The wax has stayed to the jacket and the inside is perfect. Would highly recommend this process amazed with the results.
Hi , I have a Barbour Durham its second hand , I really like the vintage look , its an XL, Id love to get it down to an L or even smaller. Do you think your process would work on a aged jacket , does the duration on the tumble dry time increase the shrinkage ?
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Is this a good permanent solution or will the jacket stretch back to its original form over time?
I used this method on the belstaff waxed cotton jacket I got. I am also between sizes and this worked like a charm! Def lost most of the waterproofing on the jacket so it will need to be redressed, but it does have this nice weathered look now. Thx so much!!!
I bought the Beacon Sports Jacket in a size M which was too small but fitted perfectly in the arms. I exchanged the M for a size L which fitted better but was far too long in the arms, by several inches!
I wore the coat buttoned up in the shower set on hot for 10 minutes followed by a tumble dry in a pillow case sealed with a cable tie. The result was astonishing! Its fits perfectly, especially the arm length which is the perfect length. The jacket has a worn in look which is perfect.